Travel Editor Craig StoltzCraig Stoltz
The Washington Post
Annapolis, MD: My girlfriend and I are planning a Carribbean vacation for next winter. However, the myriad of options is overwhelming and we don't know where to start. Can you point to any destinations that would offer seclusion and affordability, but also the opportunity to enjoy a somewhat bustling nightlife?

Craig Stoltz: Hi everyone, welcome back to our regular Monday on-line chat, during which I demonstrate why I got a C+ in typing in high school and do my best to field travel questions.

As ever, I'll be hooking in various staffers who have the bad luck to blunder into my office while I'm doing this, but today I'll depend on you, our viewers/readers/users/whatever we call you on line, to add your own ideas and perspectives.

This week we published a story by Bill Heavey in which he searched for a cheap beach vacation, so I'll start with a question very much in the same spirit.

Yes, the Caribbean is baffling, with 30-some nations or nations, all of them making claims that sound similar. At the risk of promoting our site further, go to the Travel page on washingtonpost.com and click on Destinations. Under International Destinations you'll see Caribbean; click, scroll to the bottom and you'll see a link to Caribbean Island Finder, a story that tries to answer the question of what island is best for certain kinds of activities.

What you're asking for--seclusion yet bustling nightlife--is tricky. British Virgins are good for seclusion, but there's little nightlife; St. Bart's offers good seclusion and and some nightlife, but it's all quite upscale and can be offputting for the rest of us. Maybe Aruba? St. Lucia? Others out there have opinions?

Glenn Dale, MD: I don't really have a question--I have a comment. A couple of weeks ago, a couple was looking for a place to stay in Key West. You recommended the Duval House Bed & Breakfast. My husband and I stayed there a couple of years ago and it was a horrible experience. The B & B looked nice initially, but the a/c unit shook our walls...and the furniture, a lizard decided to join us in bed, etc. I'm sure there are nice rooms, but we didn't have one. We complained to the management the next day to no avail. They sat in their quiet air conditioned office and refused to give us a refund for the next night when we told them we couldn't stay there another night. We ended up staying at the Curry Mansion Inn. Beautiful, historic, accommodating and comfortable. I highly recommed it. I complained to the Florida Dept. of Consumer Affairs when I returned home. They wrote the Duval House 3 times in an attempt to mediate, but received no response. My complaint was forwarded to the Flordia Better Business Bureau.

Craig Stoltz: This is one of the things that makes these interactive forums great. Roger Piantadosi had a fine time at Duval, but he obviously caught them at a better time than you did. Thanks for the heads-up.

WASHINGTONG, D.C.: HI CRAIG,

I'm on a very limited budget. I however, must travel when I can, or I'll go crazy. For someone who may not plan very far in advance, what advice would you give me on where to search for those unexpected, great deals?

Craig Stoltz: The best bet is last-minute e-saver deals that nearly all airlines have--you can go lots of places for under $150 round trip. USAirways has the most service from our area.

Vienna, VA: Which would you recommend for a couple traveling with a 3-year-old -- a cruise with a kiddie program, or a resort with a kiddie program? How would the expense compare? We'd like to spend some family time and some "couple time."

Craig Stoltz: As a non-cruiser, I of course would recommend the resort. If things go wrong, if you need a change of venue, there are more options at your disposal. Crusing today also creates an problem: The best kid amenities are on the biggest ships, so that makes it harder to relax, find private space and time.

I have heard good things about Disney, though, whose program is really good for kids and at least OK for adults. Also, it's just 3-4 days, making it less of a disaster if your child proves to have a weak inner ear (i.e., get seasick), for example.

Portsmouth, NH: I just wanted you to know how much I enjoyed the two articles by Eric Hubler that I read over the last 6 months or so. His article on biking through the Laurentians in Quebec (8-2-98) was great. And his article in the fall of 1998 on Brooklyn was both hysterical and enlightening.

Craig Stoltz: Eric, so nice to hear from you again!

No, just joking. Hubler is a fine humorist and a great observer. He just moved to Denver, and we're looking forward to great things from him from that part of the country.

Washingtonpost.com: A complete roundup of last-minute Internet airfare specials for departures from the three Washington-area airports is available on this site at http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-srv/travel/online/airfares.htm.

Washington, DC: My flight was cancelled on 2/13 due to the AA pilot sick-out. Consequently, I lost two nights in Key West (which I lost money on) and was not able to rebook a flight until Monday night (I waited six hours in line at the DCA airport). Any chance of getting compensated for this?

Craig Stoltz: I'd love to hear others' ideas on this. Usually, an airline limits itself to compensating for transportation costs, not land costs. But I'm told that those who are arguing persistently and clearly are getting generous flight coupons for future trips. True? Anyone out there been treated well or badly due to the AA strike?

Vienna, VA: Hi Craig,

Do you know what the final outcome was for Euram, the consolidating firm?

I used them a few times and found them to be quite reliable as well as cheaper than other ticket sources. Would you recommend any other consolidator? I am planning a trip to France in May and one to Ireland/Scotland in August-September, and would appreciate any suggestions about finding reasonable fairs...

Thanks!

Beth Anderson

AllyMcBA@hotmail.com

Craig Stoltz: Euram, once a well-respected source of consolidator (i.e., discount) fares, went belly-up and is no longer in operation anywhere. No one has really stepped into the breach locally, though Bargain Airfares seems to have established itself in the consolidator slot recently. This is not to endorse any one firm, by the way. When using a consolidator, always--always--use a credit card.

Washington,DC: I am getting married in June and my fiance and I want to honeymoon in Europe for 10-14 days, specifically Paris and Italy (Florence, Rome and possibly the coast). The cheapest airfare quotes we have been able to find are approximatley ($1000 a person). Do you think airfare will decrease at all if we wait to purchase our tickets? Do airline typically run summer fare sales to Europe? And, what are the best consolidators for trips to Europe? Thanks! C.L.

Craig Stoltz: I would not wait for a lower fare; this year, summer travel to Europe is going to be tight. At least that's the industry buzz. If you're using an agent, ask them to check with a consolidator, or do so on your own. I take it you've shopped those fares with Preview Travel, Expedia and so on? You certainly should.

Germantown, MD: Hi Craig! This is my first time at your session. I read one of your previous sessions on "Disney World". I was looking for when the Peak and Non-Peak seasons are. I'd love to save some $$$ and travel Non-Peak. We're planning on taking our daughter in 2000, when she'll be 4. Can you help? Thanks in advance.

Craig Stoltz: For ease of visit, you can't beat staying in the park; I'd go for one of the cheap on-campus options for lodging. The place to be careful is park admissions and food. As for the seasons, avoid all summer and essentially any time kids are out of school. Best time to go is between Thanksgiving and Christmas; worst is between Christmas and New Year's. Jan/Feb, aside from long weekends, are also good.

washington dc: travel to cuba -- given the recent political "warming", is it likely to be soon that US citizens can travel directly to cuba?

Any advise on indirect routes?

Craig Stoltz: I'm no expert in Cuba-US relations, but from what I hear there is still very strong opposition to liberalization, and open travel by US citizens is unlikely any time soon. If you want to go on the sly--and we don't endorse this--plan your trip with a Canadian travel agent. If you travel to Jamaica, you'll also find plenty of opportunities on the ground to get to Cuba, but they are hard to arrange from here.

Newark: Last minute advice/suggestions:
I'm traveling to Ireland next week for 10 days. I plan to do most of the touristy sites but wanted to see if you/reader have any other suggestions, i.e. cool, fun things to do for a 27 yr.old. Thanks.

Craig Stoltz: Says Carolyn Brown, recently back: Temple Bar is the Fells Point of Ireland--lots of pubs, cafes, intl film center, shops and it's close to all the touristy stuff. Warning, though: it's bacheolor party central for a lot of European countries, so you see lots of guys, how you say, yawning in technicolor on the sidewalks. It's in Dublin, by the way. Have a blast!

Washington, DC : Is it just me or Venice... Why do the locals in Venice, Italy, appear to be so rude? Have the tourists tainted their attitudes?

Craig Stoltz: There are very few people and businesses there that aren't somehow connected to the tourist trade. When this happens, you lose all sense of local color, and attitudes are bad. Try Lucca, the walled city in Tuscany, instead.

Alexandria, VA: Do you have any ideas for a wine enthusiast to visit this summer besides Napa/Sonoma, CA?

Craig Stoltz: U.S.: The Finger Lakes region in New York, and Oregon has a growing region near the coast. Even, god help us, Kansas City is claiming to have vineyards worth visiting.

Farther afield, aside from the obvious France, give Portugal a look. Also, the Wachau Valley on the Danube, outside Vienna, is fabulous. (These comments from Carolyn Brown, who's been trapped here now.)

Centreville, VA: I'm getting married next year (May), and would like to take a honeymoon in Bermuda, or someplace in the Caribbean. I was wondering if prices are going to go up due to the new millenium? Also I wanted to know some reasonable secluded hotels in Bermuda? I've looked at travel books, but some of them don't give me prices.

Craig Stoltz: I have heard nothing to predict that prices will stay inflated throughout the year 2000. That shouldn't be a problem. You should check Bermuda. They have a new tourism leader and are working to diversify themselves and attract younger visitors (for ex., Carinival Cruises is going there for the first time next year).

I'd look for all-inclusive packages, where savings can be considerable.

Harrisburg PA: Is there one "must see" in Provence,France?

Craig Stoltz: Says Brown: No way. There's so much that's great. But here are three:
Town of Les Baux: Hilltop town; avoid weekends.
City of Avignon: fabulous;
There's a wildlife refuge where the Rhone dumps south, not to be missed.

Fairfax, VA: In response to Glenn Dale, MD from the beginning of the session. . . It was I who had the questions a couple of weeks ago about Key West. We've made our reservations and are staying at Curry Mansion House. After reading your comments, I'm glad we decided on that one and not Duval House. We decided it looked wonderful and was worth the little extra cost because of the extras it says it provides - happy hour, breakfast and access to beaches. Thanks.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Fairfax! Godspeed, Glenn Dale!

Arlington, VA: One suggestion: In a lot of newspaper Travel sections, the exchange rates for foriegn currency is listed, and I would love it if the Post would do the same. When I went to Europe last year, I looked vainly for them in the Travel section, and finally found them in the back pages of Business

Craig Stoltz: Alas, we've discussed and keep hoping for more space to include this information. You will find the rates in the Business section--and, more accurately and completely, on washingtonpost.com

washington,dc: My friend and I are considering a spur-of-the-moment to France in April. Neither of us has done European travel before . . . are we too late? Do we need visas and passsports, vaccines? How about lodging . . . we are two mature ladies; I am coming out of graduate school and she's celebrating a significant birthday, so hostels are out, but we would like something nice, yet reasonable . . . don't mind walking and biking, but we have to clean-up after families at home, don't want to do it on vacation.
Any ideas will be welcome
Many thanks.

Craig Stoltz: Dress warm, take a raincoat. You don't need vaccines for France, or a visa. You do need a passport.

It's not too late; you can sitll find fares below $400 for this time period. Check a consolidator, or have your agent check.

Consider renting a flat in Paris. Again, consult an agent. We have a story coming up soon about cheaper but charming digs in Paris, but it's not in yet.

Anyone out there give these ladies a hand?

Alexandria, VA: Craig, I concur with your opinion of Lucca. I lived in Italy for 2 1/2 years and I give Lucca high marks for "cuteness", very under-rated by tourist books; Lucca's Piazza Anfiteatro is my favorite piazza in all of Italy.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Alexandria.

San Juan, Puerto Rico: Is it too cold to visit Holand and France on November?

Craig Stoltz: Brown was in France in November; it was, she says, about "two weeks ahead" (i.e., colder) than it was here in Washington. It was in the 50s and 60s on a good day, some rain. Paris is colder than Arles or anything else nearer the Mediterranean. Holland? We don't know.

Alexandria, VA: Hi Craig - Another person and I are looking to travel to the Virgin Islands for New Years 1999. Any suggestions on where and when to find the best airline rates?

Craig Stoltz: You won't get "good" airline rates for the Millennium. Check the price of a ferry from Puerto Rico maybe, but even PR rates will be high. The Virgins are suffering for tourism because air rates are so high. Conventional wisdom says look for a tour package, but around the millennium they'll be priced up, not down.

Let us know what you find. . . .

Fairfax, VA: I was wondering what people's experiences were with Puerto Rico. A lot of people I spoke with told me they did not have good experiences and recommended that I not go (even though the ticket woul be free). What do you think?

Craig Stoltz: Brown used to have an anti-Puerto Rico bent, but last time she went, in Jan, she said it was much better and cleaned up considerably. Beware, though: Hotel rates are very high for the Caribbean--$300 per night at mediocre places.

Brown spent $100 for a room at the Gallery Inn in Old San Juan, a big B&B, and says it was super.

Arlington Virginia : I am looking for a tropical destination for me and 3 of my friends in the april timeframe. We are looking for something fun, warm, and relaxing. I have been to Jamaica before. Is there anything a little nicer (i.e. you don't get harrassed by the locals when you walk down the street)?

Craig Stoltz: Grand Cayman is more expensive but clean and has great beaches. I'd consider Aruba, Barbados, Martinique and, yes, the much-talked-about, little-visited Punta Cana in the Dominican Republic. Other ideas out there?

Washington, D.C.: My girlfriend and I are going to Iowa in July for a wedding. Is there anything to do around there so we can make it a vacation?

Craig Stoltz: Just across the Mississippi River in Illinois is a wonderful little town called Galina; part of Field of Dreams was filmed there. Just across the river from Dubuque.

Harrisburg PA: To the "mature" D.C. ladies asking about France. Although many think about biking in France, we have been there quite a few times, and I have always commented that I would not want to be biking on those roads with the speeds the cars go. Rent a car--it is not expensive.

Craig Stoltz: good thought, Harrisburg!

Washington, D.C.: A group of us are planning to spend the New Year's 1999 in the British Virgin Islands. Obviously airline seats have been difficult to come by and we've been quoted an airfare of $980 roundtrip. Any chance airfares will go down for that region at that time?

Craig Stoltz: A useful point of comparison for Caribbean millennial trips. I would not expect fares to go down; in fact, just the opposite.

Harrisburg PA: For Arlington VA--Try Tortola.

Craig Stoltz: Yes, Tortola of the British Virgin Islands, worth a look.

Alexandria: Why use a credit card with consolidators?

Craig Stoltz: Consolidators work on very thin margins, and over the last few years several of the best-regarded firms have gone belly up, sometimes stranding people who had paid for tix with checks or cash but did not get their tickets. If you use a credit card and the consolidator doesn't deliver, you'll at least get your money back.

Washington DC: In regards to the question about Provence, if you're interested in Van Gogh, you can visit the hospital where he lived in St. Remy, which is a charming little town in its own right. Also, the roman ruins near Orange are worth a visit.

Craig Stoltz: Nice recommendation on the town, but Brown says there's little trace of Vincent there, at least at the hospital. A memorial bust was stolen and the room he stayed in is no longer. Roman ruins sound great.

St. Joseph, Mo.: I was surprised at the comment about Venice. I went there two years ago in February (during Lent) and had a marvelous time. One of the best meals I've ever had was in a lovely restaurant there, and it was mostly enjoyable because of the lively waiter. They seated us in a back room, and I asked the waiter if that was because we were Americans and they were embarassed to have us eating there (jokingly). He said, "What? You are Americans?" in this flamboyant, fake-aghast way. "We have lasagna, spaghetti, and even some ketchup."
After our meal, he brought us some lemon liquor, followed by little sugar cookies, followed by more liquor. None of it appeared on our bill. I'll never forget it. We found nearly every Italian except a few very friendly, pleasant and helpful, no matter what the situation. Perhaps Italy, and Venice esp., are best in the off-season.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, St. Jo! Off-season may be the key. . . .

Fairfax, VA: Craig- Know of anyone's experience using priceline.com to get hotel rooms? I was shocked by Seattle's hotel rates, so I checked out priceline.com. The problem seems to be that THEY pick the hotel and you're stuck with what they pick. Any suggestions on moderately priced rooms (under $100) in Seattle?

Craig Stoltz: Any time you use Priceline.com, you have no choice but to accept the product they assign to you--assuming you even get a room or airline ticket to match your bid. I am not very hopeful about the use of priceline, and most people I know and who have tried feel the same way.

HRN, the Hotel Reservation Network, may serve Seattle (hrn.com). Also, check utell.com and bbchannel.com, for B&Bs; Travelscape, a Post partner, also has an inventory of discount rooms and is worth checking with.

Bethesda, MD: About Euram - we got stuck without tickets for a trip last August when Euram went bankrupt. We had paid with a credit card and happily, the credi card company reimbursed us for the cost of the tickets, even though we had purchased them 5 months earlier. We were in a terrible bind, nevertheless, because we were stuck looking for replacement tickets less than 1 week before travel to Europe in August. You can imagine the price difference. Before using a consolidator again, I'd be sure to use only those that take credit cards AND agree to issue your tickets immediately.

Craig Stoltz: Another hearbreaking cautionary tale from the consoliator wars.

Washington, DC: I'm going to Belgium for 10 days next month and was wondering whether you can recommend a shop for buying Belgian chocolates? Also, it's nice seeing color on the front of the Sunday Travel Section now. Will we be seeing color on inside pages, too?

Craig Stoltz: In Brussels, you'll want to go to Neuhaus, the "best, freshest, most chocolatey," says Gary Lee, who went in pursuit of Belgian chocolates last year.

Thanks for the comment on color. For the next couple months, it'll probably be limited to the front. Color inside will follow, perhaps by late spring.

Richmond, VA: What is the best source of information on how to select a cruise line (ship)?

Craig Stoltz: Says Carolyn Brown: Check our Cruise-O-Matic (under Travel, look for Travel Archives). On the Web, she like the Mining Company site (miningco.com), because people write in about their own experiences. Also good is Cruise Critic on America Online.

Chevy Chase, MD: Can you recommend a nice hotel with all the amenities (like pool, decent restaurant,etc) for a long weekend with kids at the beaches in MD or Delaware? We don't want a moldy old motel room and would prefer a hotel with suites so we could bring along a babysitter. Any suggestions?

Craig Stoltz: At Rehoboth, there's one called the Atlantic (I believe) right on the boardwalk; it's expensive and fairly charmless, but has an indoor pool and a restaurant inside. In Bethany, there's a condo complex called Sea Colony which has lots of weekend rentals. Our nearby coast has few full-service resorts. Also check the Fenwick Inn in Ocean City.

Other advice?

Bethesda MD: I've been to Galena, Illinois, very picturesque, much like Ellicott City, but more stores. Take a ride on the main road that heads back to Chicago - hilly and not what people think Illinois should look like. U.S. Grant's boyhood home is here also.

Craig Stoltz: More advice on heartland touring. . . .

Harrisburg Pa: I, too, was surprised at the negative comment about Venice. When we arrived with our children last April, we asked a merchant in Piazza San Marco for directions. When he saw us take a wrong turn, he left his store, and crossed the piazza to catch us,and to make sure we did not get lost. It is my favorite place on earth!

Craig Stoltz: wonders never cease. . . .

Arlington, VA: What would be the best time to travel to New Mexico/Arizona? Weather as well as cost.

Craig Stoltz: Fall and spring for weather and costs; avoid Christmas holidays (cost) and summer (killer heat). Though, keep an eye on elevation: Some places (Taos) are cool in the summer; hence summer there is a high season too.

Arlington, VA: re: the consolidator question

I am going to Scandinavia this summer. The lowest fare I could find online for my itinerary (IAD to Copenhage and return from Helsinki) was about $1160. The travel agent I'm working with uses a consolidator and got me a fare of $1005 on Lufthansa. I have the tickets in hand already. I think the consolidator is called Internation Travel and is in Rockville. Any good travel agent should work with at least one consolidator and should be able to help. I'm saving $150 this way, but beware of the many restrictions...

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Arlington. Also, if you have questions about a consolidator, check with your local Better Business Bureau offices.

Washington, D.C.: Being a travel writer seems like a really interesting profession. I spent some time travelling in asia, and love to write. Could you explain how you got started and maybe give some tips to an aspiring writer?

Craig Stoltz: I think if you gave most journalists sodium pentathol, they'd admit they either want to be a restaurant critic, a movie critic or a travel writer. The competition can be furious. On the upside, the work's great. On the downside, you'll never relax on vacation again. And you need to learn to type really fast on the World Wide Web.

And on that note, we end today's session. Thanks for the questions and comments, and we'll see you next week in this very same place. Next week's ink-on-paper topic: The Caribbean.

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